Sewing Terms
We all know how frustrating it is when you open up a pattern and it tells you to do something like baste here, or understitch there…and you have no idea what that means. Turning reading patterns and sewing vocabulary into second nature takes time and practice. So I thought creating a cheat sheet of sewing terms would be fun. Here is a list of sewing terms and some basic definitions. Hope you enjoy it!
BASTE: to sew a temporary seam with a longer stitch length. This can be done by hand or by lengthening the stitch length to 4-5mm on your machine. Basting generally holds two or more layers of fabric together until they can be sewn together, permanently. Basting stitches are generally removed after the final seam is complete if visible from the outside.
EDGESTITCH: to sew a line of stitching, (1/16” - 1”/2-3mm) from the edge.
FINISH: to serge or zigzag stitch a raw edge to prevent fraying.
STITCH IN THE DITCH: a type of inconspicuous topstitching done in the crevice or ditch of a previously stitched seam. This is done for tacking facings in place and attaching bindings and waistbands in place.
STAYSTITCH: to sew a line of stitching through a single layer of fabric to stabilize curves or diagonal cuts in the fabric. This is usually done with a shorter stitch length (2-2.5mm). Staystitching needs to be sewn inside your seam allowance as it will not be removed after sewing.
TOPSTITCH: to stitch on the top, an even distance from a seam, garment edge, or fold; often done with a lengthened stitch length (3-4mm). This is done on the right side and will be sewn through all layers.
UNDERSTITCH: to stitch both seam allowances to the under section, such as the under collar or the garment-facing, to keep the seam edge from showing on the right side of the garment. This is done by pressing the seam allowance towards the inside or back, then topstitching through all three layers 1/16”-1/8”/2-3mm from the ditch.
SLIP STITCH: The slip stitch or ladder stitch, is an easy way to close up a discrete seam by hand
