5 reasons I ONLY Make Wearable Toiles
Many people take the time to make a “toile” to make sure a garment will fit before cutting into their nicer fabric. They will make fitting adjustments and sometimes even make a few toiles. While this is a good practice in theory, I don’t ever make them…and here is why.
This top was a wearable “toile” of a pattern I’m developing. I shortened the sleeve of the original pattern and it was way too wide and looked silly. So I played with some pleats and came out with something I hadn’t imagined, but like even better. Yay for just going for it!
SEW JO: I rarely enjoy making the same garment twice…especially in a row. If I made a muslin toile I would likely never get enough momentum to make the finished garment.
GOOD ENOUGH: Sometimes I just need my clothes to be good enough, as long as they are comfortable and look professional I'm not over worried about wearing something with draglines if it's a “wearable toile”.
GIFTS: I rarely sew for anybody but myself or my girls. That is, unless I make something that doesn’t fit. I have two lovely sisters with completely different body shapes and sizes than myself. If something doesn’t fit me, I am usually able to give it to one of them, and I love that excuse to give them something I have made.
WEARABILITY: Since I would never wear a muslin toile for more than a fit check, I believe I would be missing out on a vital part of the fitting process. Sure you can see drag lines on a muslin toil and you can squat and sit and lift your arms. But you usually don’t cook in them, or wear them for a walk, or playing with your kids. I like to wear my “wearable toiles” for several washes before I really take note of the fit and adjustments needed. Muslin isn’t a very wearable fabric. So testing something out in a fabric you would actually wear makes all the difference in my opinion.
This is the Terra Dress by Vivian Shao Chen. Once again I chose to skip the recommended toile. When making a pattern from an indie pattern designer that is loose fitted I feel little need to make a toile because they are usually tested by so many people before they are launched. You can also search their hashtags ie: #terradress on instagram and find fitting and suggestion from other makers who have made the pattern.
A few extra notes. As a pattern maker, I do indeed work on the proper fit, and make several toiles and samples of each thing to make sure the fit is right. I however always make the toiles wearable. If I am using somebody else’s patterns I usually make it, note things I would change if I made it again, but I still wear the original or occasionally gift if it it really doesn’t fit.
I hope this helps if you are on the fence about making a toile. Even if that makes you want to make them even more! Happy sewing!